August: a notoriously hot month... 2012: a year that will be
remembered in many places as very hot and dry. When it comes to white
grape varieties it is essential that you tend to them early so that you
preserve the essential aromas.
The cold that we respect so much and is so dear to wine making has a high environmental and economic cost.
So
to break it down for you... We have a hot month when you need the cool,
you need to pick grapes at the essential time. This means we need to
take advantage of the cool summer nights and manually harvest the grapes
at night-time.
If you add these ingredients, press and ferment them, you get the recipe for BERNAVI Notte Bianca "White Night".
Even
this year, the second in a row we have had to face the final sprint of
the maturing of our white wine grapes in very extreme conditions in
terms of temperature and drought.
Because of this the decision was swift and unanimous! We would pick the grapes by nightfall.
So
after a frugal supper we would help each other put on our "mental
lanterns" (as Gino calls it) and we would go through the lines of our
vineyard called "Coster".
"Coster" is a vineyard that is more than
70 years old with beautiful golden grapes. Garnaxta blanca is queen of
Terra Alta and despite adversity gives us grapes with its fragrance in
tact and with a significant accumulation of sugar whilst still keeping a
perfect balance. We harvested for two nights with calm, focus and
attention this ritual requires.
At sunrise on the second day of harvest we went into the valley where the viognier helps us to interpret the "terroir".
We
are in a preliterol area and behind us is the beginning of the Spanish
Central Massif which is a Mediterranean plateau of transition. The
Mediterranean climate condition of this area is influenced by the
continental climate of the inside of the peninsula and the Garbi
alternate Cerc. It's where summer days alternate with cool nights and
warm summers give way to cold winters.
We want to interpret this
contrast between extreme conditions with our Notte Bianca so that the
typical Mediterranean Garnaxta blends with a more continental viognier
so that the flavours adapt to express the originality in these lands.
The
grapes are harvested almost tenderly into the light of the morning, we
work in total silence where only the wind whispers and the moon and the
stars drive you. By sunrise we have brought the grapes into the cellar
and we press them with all the care they deserve. It's quite funny
because when we first pressed the grapes the juice had a temperature of
18 degrees and to maintain a perfect fermentation we need to drop it to
15 degrees! Ridiculous!
Now our Notte Bianca ferments slowly,
releasing aromas of green apple, grapefruit, banana and peach... All
aromatic evolutions which combined bring an interesting complexity in
power.
Now it will follow the moons and rest on its lees until the end of the next winter when the bottle calls.
In vino vivendo continues...
